Many people know that the advanced level of most mechanical watches is determined by the movement. However, many people don't know how to judge whether the watch is good or not by the movement. Today we will briefly teach you how to quickly judge the quality of a watch through a mechanical movement.
Generally, mechanical watches use back-through glass lenses, which allow you to see the internal structure of the movement, but many people don’t know where to look and cannot understand. Today we will help you understand how to see the movement of the watch through the back of the watch.
First of all, when it comes to a good watch, the first thing you think of is made in Switzerland. The common models of Swiss-made mechanical watches are basically equipped with ETA movements. Tissot, which is as cheap as two or three thousand, and IWC, Cartier, and Breitling, which are expensive to tens or hundreds of thousands, all use the same type of movement. Here, many friends are puzzled, why use the same movement, and the price will be so different?
This is of course related to the level of the ETA movement. Even for the same type of ETA movement, there are several types of movement levels. As mentioned in the previous article, how does the price difference of watches that also use ETA movement differ so much? Movements are also divided into four movement levels: standard, refined (Elaboré), top, and observatory.
First, see if the movement is rhodium-plated
Copper has good machining properties. The watch movement splints are basically made of copper, but they are not resistant to oxidation and are easily corroded by moisture. Rhodium plating not only avoids these problems, but also looks more beautiful. Therefore, modern movements are basically rhodium-plated, and some high imitation watches or opaque watches are still using this type of movement.
Secondly, look at the shock absorber
There are three common watch shock absorbers: triangle shock absorbers, Ingabriel shock absorbers, KIF shock absorbers. Triangle shock absorbers are generally those commonly used in fake watches or cheap watches with ETA movements. For example, Tissot’s cheapest Le Lok mechanical watch uses triangle shock absorbers; the most common type of ETA movement is Ingabru shock absorbers. Longines and Mido all use their shock absorbers; the KIF shock absorbers that are only used by top-level watches are rare in ETA movements. At present, the most common use of sub-shock absorbers is the opaque Tudor. use.
Again, watch polishing
ETA movement polishing is commonly used in decorative polishing, including polishing lines, patterns and chamfers. Common polishing is fish scale polishing, Geneva texture and sun radiation texture polishing. After polishing, observe whether the polished texture is uniform, whether it is deep or shallow, and whether the reflected light is soft.
Finally, look at the edge number of the movement splint
Generally, there will be DM/V8 engraved beside the model number on the edge of the movement splint. Due to the material composition of the various components of the movement, the treatment of the movement surface, the heat treatment and the sensitivity to temperature, the tests are different. Previously, V8 movements were mostly used in high-end watches, while DM movements were mostly found in small brands and low-end brands; however, it is also said that brands under the SWATCH Group use V8 movements, while most other independent brands supply ETA rough. Movement DM, an independent watch brand will be adjusted and polished and developed into a movement that meets its own brand level.
Some Breitling watches use DM movements, while some Tissot uses V8 movements. The DM/V8 number marked on the movement can be used as an extension and reference for knowledge, and it is necessary to make judgments on the brand, movement and performance of the watch.